Day 26: Ruger Red Label

My Ruger Red Label is currently my favorite gun. I use it for hunting as well as semi-competitive trap, skeet, and sporting clays, and it has a certain charm that only a classic American-made shotgun has to offer. It may not be one of the true classic doubles, but as the last production double-barrel shotgun still designed and manufactured in the US, I think it occupies an important place in shotgun history.


This particular version is an old-model 20 gauge, with the blued receiver that was discontinued only a few years into production. It has 3" chambers, a 28" barrel, and fixed modified over improved cylinder chokes. The quality of the wood is excellent, and the red rubber stock pad made by Goodyear gives a distinctive look to the older models. While the newer Red Labels are also nice, I'm aesthetically displeased with the stainless receivers and black stock pad in comparison.

Ruger shotguns don't have the best reputation. This may come as a surprise, knowing the quality of their other firearms and their outstanding customer service. However, they're known for accumulating small problems with wear that cause the use to send it in for (free) service, which is a definite inconvenience. This is supposedly more of a problem with the newer models, versus the older ones.

My only direct experience with Ruger's customer service was for the replacement of the barrel rib. A previous owner incorrectly installed an aftermarket middle bead sight off-center from the sighting axis, and bored completely through the rib, scratching the top of the barrel. I received estimates from several private gunsmiths but Ruger beat all of them. (This kind of major user-caused repair isn't free, but most things are.) I sent the gun into their New Hampshire based factory, and spoke with gunsmiths on multiple occasions. I had the shotgun back in about 3 weeks, including shipping time. They completely reworked the aged internals, replaced the rib, and (unfortunately) re-blued the entire gun. I should have told them not to do the re-blue since it had developed a nice plum patina over the years, but I don't think much of it, since its a shooter, not an investment piece.


Over/under shotguns aren't just for recreational clay shooting. They share a distinct advantage with the side by side in that they allow quick selection of two different chokes (and potentially two different loads) in the field. In a hunting situation, a flick of a switch can change your payload from a 3" magnum round of #4 buckshot through a modified choke to a 2 3/4" standard #8 birdshot load through an improved cylinder choke. Try doing that with a pump or autoloader. Of course, your ability to react to a flushing bird, for example, may hinder this selection process, which is why some traditional hunters still favor double triggers. For me, the configuration of the Red Label is effective and ergonomic.

I've done a few small repairs on my Red Label that others may have sent theirs in for. I made a small adjustment to the sear levers to adjust the timing, as one of the shell ejectors would occasionally catch on the sear. I also did a full takedown and cleaning of the action to rectify a dirty firing pin that would occasionally cause light-strike failures, with the help of the Radocy manual, which I purchased online. Many people are afraid to get into those parts, but if you take your time and have any mechanical skills whatsoever, you can do it. It's also nice when you know 100% how your firearm functions. Not everyone can say that.


From my experience, Ruger shotguns hold their own in the high-throughput category of shotguns. While I can only speak from my own experiences, I've put 2,500 rounds through my Red Label in the past 4 months without a hitch, and I plan on continuing this rate for a long time. Admittedly this isn't a "high round count" for a clay target gun, which may see tens of thousands of rounds in a year in the hands of a highly competitive shooter. But for someone who shoots target games for fun 2-3 times per week like I do, it will last a long time.

Ruger conveniently offers information concerning serial number history as well as electronic copies of old user's manuals on their web site. The serial history is only approximate, but it's easy to send them an e-mail or give them a call for an exact answer. The serial chart places this particular shotgun in their 1983 production line, but contacting Ruger, I was told it was actually manufactured in October 1981, which predates the introduction of the 12 gauge model! Really cool information to know as someone who appreciates firearms history.


Happy shooting!

Day 16: Ruger 10/22

The Ruger 10/22 is one of the most popular rimfire rifles ever manufactured. Originally released in 1964, the 10/22 is traditionally chambered in .22 Long Rifle, yet limited variants were produced in .22 WMR and .17 HMR. One advantage to the 10/22 over other popular .22LR rifles such as the Marlin Model 60 is it’s 10-round rotary magazine, which is much faster and more practical than a front-fed tubular magazine. I recently decided that I needed one for small game hunting and target shooting.


My Model

There are countless subtypes of the 10/22 available from the factory, but I opted for the Sporter (Deluxe Sporter according to Cabela’s) edition, primarily for the high-quality checkered American Walnut stock. When I picked it off the shelf, I was immediately impressed by the quality of the flip-up rear sight and the crisp trigger.

The first day at the range, I shot 675 rounds out of the stock rifle with bulk ammunition without a single hiccup. It was a dream to shoot, and extremely easy to disassemble and clean back at home. It’s no Glock, but cleaning and maintenance on this rifle is just about as simple as it gets. Just one screw to remove the stock, and 2 pins to remove the trigger assembly, and one pin to remove the bolt.


Customizations

One of the reasons for the huge popularity of the Ruger 10/22 is its customizability and the availability of aftermarket accessories. You turn any run-of-the-mill 10/22 into a specialized hunting rifle, a compact survival tool, a tactical military-style practice gun, or an expensive flashy competition rifle. Most of the 10/22’s out there probably remain in the category of your standard stock weekend plinker, but the potential is there if you want to take advantage of it.

I opted to spend a few bucks optimizing my rifle for hunting small game, since I tend to focus on hunting-style customizations on my long guns. My main addition was a Vortex Crossfire 4x32 scope with Leupold scope rings. The 4x fixed magnification 32mm scope is one of the most popular general-purpose hunting optics ever made, and on a rimfire allows generous accuracy from 25-100 yards and beyond. That’s more than enough for targeting treed squirrels, so I’m happy.

The 10/22 Deluxe Sporter comes with 1” sling swivels, but the availability of slings in this width is lacking. I replaced these swivels with 1.25” quick-detachable swivels and swivel bases from Uncle Mike’s, so I could pair it with a thicker Wilderness sling. If you’re trying to figure out what parts you need to make the same replacement, both swivel taps in the Sporter stock accept ½” wood screws.

All 10/22’s come with one 10-round rotary magazine. Before experiencing this style of magazine I’ll admit I was skeptical about it, but they are incredibly reliable and compact. I’ve shot over 700 rounds through one of my rotary magazines without a single failure whatsoever, without cleaning it at all. I’m impressed considering how dirty rimfire cartridges can get after high-volume shooting.

I purchased a 25-round steel extended magazine by TacticalInc.com, but I can’t comment on this yet. These magazines are adjustable by 4 different screws, and so far I haven’t found a configuration that feeds or ejects reliably. I hope I can tune this magazine properly, since a high-capacity .22 could prove quite useful during a zombie apocalypse. I'll update everyone later on whether this mag is functional or a piece of junk, I just haven't figured it out yet.


Overall Impressions

The Ruger 10/22 has quickly become one of my favorite guns that I’ve ever shot. It’s accurate at close to medium ranges, useful for hunting and survival applications, and is American-made. It’s light weight in relation to other hunting rifles helps in making it highly portable, but its low mass makes off-hand shooting a bit of a challenge, so a shooting rest or proper shooting position is preferable for ethical kills. The price of .22LR ammunition easily allows high-volume shooting on any budget, and this is the kind of gun you can shoot all day for the price of going out to a movie. A .22 will eventually pay for itself in ammo savings along, but it’s also a blast to shoot.

Day 14: Picture of the Day

People own firearms for a variety of reasons. They're fun to shoot at the range, enjoyable to collect, and capture important pieces of history. First and foremost however, they are purpose-built tools.

As I described in one of my recent posts, I have optimized one of my tools for hunting game. Spring turkey season kicked off this week, and after numerous failed attempts, I finally harvested my first bird on Thursday. It feels great to put your own food on the table after spending days in the field, and hunting can be a rewarding way to experience an American pastime while giving you a reason to keep your shooting skills sharp.


Turkey sandwiches, anyone?

Day 12: Mossberg 500 Turkey Shotgun & Optics

If you didn't know, this Monday kicks off Michigan's spring wild turkey season! So I figured I would make a post introducing you to my turkey shotgun and the rationale for selecting good turkey hunting gear. My focus will be on shotgun optics, because this topic isn't often discussed but it can provide a distinct advantage out in the field.

The platform I selected was the Mossberg 500, because it's and can be configured for any possible purpose. It is pump-action, which brings down the cost, and is easier to field strip. I can use this gun for hunting deer, small game, turkey, and as a home defense weapon simply by dropping in the appropriate load. The 500 is durable and relatively inexpensive. The base model I purchased included a thumbhole Monte Carlo stock and fiber optic sights, with a 20" barrel and a threaded choke.


HUNTING OPTICS

Like I said, I use my shotgun for turkey, deer, and small game, and I decided to mount a 1.5-4.5 x 20 scope to assist in hunting. If you don't already know, the first set of numbers is the magnification, which is adjustable in this case, and the second number is the aperture size. The larger the aperture, the more light gets transmitted through the glass, assisting in low light conditions.

If you get a Mossberg is like mine, it should be "drilled and tapped," and have 4 screws on the top of the receiver that can be removed to mount a rail. I bought a two-piece Weaver rail, which is just screwed in to allow attachment of scope rings. I got a nice set of rings that I trust to withstand the recoil of my 12 gauge without loosening up over time. Then there's the scope itself. So total, it's three pieces you'll need to get to mount a scope.

My scope setup consists of the following parts:
- Weaver 48473 Matte Top Base Pair For Mossberg 500
- Leupold Quick Release Weaver Style Rings 49853, 1", Low, Matte
- Nikon Monarch Turkey Shotgun Scope 6590, Turkey Pro Reticle

Scopes made specifically for shotguns usually have longer eye relief, which is helpful if you use magnum hunting loads. Also, keep in mind that the eye relief is shortened with a variable power scope at higher magnifications.

Any rail will do, as long as it's drilled for your specific shotgun. The cheaper ones are made of aluminum and the more expensive ones are steel. I just went with aluminum to save a few bucks, and I prefer the two-piece rails for aesthetic reasons. As for the rings, just make sure they match the diameter of your scope. Most scopes are 1" in diameter, but there are other configurations out there so just be sure you match them. I went with this Leupold model because I liked the quick-release style where you don't need a torx wrench to remove the scope, because I remove it for shooting clays. They come in several heights, and "low" should be sufficient for scopes with an aperture less than 25mm.

With the Turkey Pro reticle of this particular model scope, the center crosshairs are very faint, while the circle around the center is heavy. I think this is perfect for switching between shot and slugs, but a different reticle might be ideal for a dedicated slug gun. Nikon's Monarch African Rifle scope looks almost identical, but the parallax is set for 100 yards (vs. 50 with the turkey) and the reticle is a German variant.

There is slight chromatic aberration evident when the sun is positioned just right, but not noticeable unless you're looking for it. It works great with both eyes open and allows fast target acquisition. The optical quality seems pretty consistent at all zooms, and it works well in low light, considering the small aperture.

I don't have a ton of experience with scopes, but I do have experience with camera optics, and you get what you pay for. Nikon is a great trade-off of cost and quality in my opinion, and I have been very happy with this model.

OTHER DETAILS

One of the most important aspects of preparing a shotgun for hunting season is a task called patterning. Every shotgun, barrel, and choke will behave differently when fired, so it's important to try a large variety of different shotshells to see what performs best in your setup. After trying half a dozen different kinds, I settled with 3" Winchester Extreme Elite magnum turkey loads in #4 shot because they pattern most consistently in my particular gun.

Shooting trap is a lot of fun. All you need to guarantee several hours of fun at the range is a cheap plastic clay thrower, a box of sporting clays, and a friend. Shooting trap with a scope mounted is cumbersome, so it's best to either take it off or use a dedicated shotgun for this purpose. You usually use a wide choke while shooting clays due to the small shot size and close range.

Speaking of chokes, selecting one will be the topic of a future post. You can use whatever choke comes with the gun, but many choose to upgrade to attain more consistent patterns. I use a Briley Ported Super Turkey in this gun, and it was worth every penny.

I tried to cover a lot of ground in just one post. This was essentially an overview of my gear, why I chose it, and what you need if you're looking to build a similar shotgun. If you have any questions feel free to comment.

Good luck this season, everyone!

Day 2: Glock 20 [10mm] Review

I'm sure there are some of you out there that can't wait for our first post on an antique firearm. But before we get to that, I wanted to interrupt with a brief review of my favorite modern handgun, the 10mm Glock 20.

The reason I became interested in guns in the first place is because I've always enjoyed backpacking and camping. In the summer of 2007, I was hiking a portion of the Appalachian Trail with a buddy of mine, traveling through bear country on a rainy summer night. We couldn't ignore the sounds of sticks breaking and brush moving, and armed with a hunting knife and a can of bear spray, we somehow avoided confrontation with the beast that we were sure was tracking us. We spoke with another backpacker the next morning who mentioned spooking a bear off the trail earlier that day. I noticed his holstered revolver and took the hint.

When searching for the perfect trail companion for an outdoorsman, many default on a revolver due to its simplicity and perceived ruggedness. They assume that modern autoloaders are too prone to failure, and settle for a pretty 6-shot wheelgun. But wouldn't you feel a little more secure taking on the vast wilderness with 16 shots of one of the most powerful handgun rounds ever chambered?


The Glock 20 is a full-size polymer-framed semi-automatic pistol designed for the outdoorsman and hunter. With a magazine capacity of 15+1 and a reputation of indestructibility, a Glock is the only legitimate alternative to the revolver for prolonged outdoor use. Glocks will run forever without maintenance, but with practice can be field striped with one hand if necessary. They'll go bang every time you pull the trigger, and that is the most important feature for me. Whether it's for defense against four-legged creatures, or for everyday carry against two-legged predators, a Glock will always be your best bet for when shit hits the fan.

The GLOCK 20 in 10 mm provides massive
firepower. The use of the recoil-damping
GLOCK hi-tech polymer considerably reduces
recoil. With muzzle energy of 750 Joule and a
magazine capacity of 15 rounds, it is the reliable
companion on every hunt. It allows a safe and accurate
finishing shot even when hunting big game.
-GLOCK

Glock manufactures 10mm pistols in two sizes: full-sized (G20) and subcompact (G29). I went for the full-sized version because it facilitates added control, has a higher magazine capacity, and I still have no difficulty concealing it with a proper IWB holster (with a CPL of course*). They also make a G20SF, or "short frame", which is actually the model I purchased, shown in the included pictures. The only difference is a slightly reduced backstrap.

The number one reason to buy a G20: firepower. If you need another reason: durability. If you're looking for a perfect no-frills hunting or self-defense combat sidearm, look no further.

I'll leave you all with this action shot. I'm looking forward to starting up this blog, and you'll be seeing a lot more of my photography in the future. I'll be reviewing a few aftermarket accessories for this gun, and we'll be sure to include some ammunition reviews and field results. If there's anything you want to know about Glocks, leave us a comment. I could talk about my G20 all day.


* Anyone interested in learning how to obtain a concealed pistol license (CPL) in Michigan can contact us directly, but we will definitely make a post about this in the future. Remember, "a right not exercised is a right lost"!